2月11日

這是我第四次到日本。因為來過太多次了,想不出要去哪裡,所以這次參加雄獅的「九州快閃」團。這次的導遊很棒:不會一直推銷產品、很有知識、思路很有條理、不拐彎抹角。

今天肚子快爆炸了! 早上三點起來,吃完早餐到機場。飛機上吃了兩份午餐,因為外婆早上十點以前只吃素,所以無發吃她的那一份午餐。下飛機又吃了一次DIY拉麵午餐。晚上又是旅館自助餐。

中午在購物中心還看到一隻小猴子表演,超可愛的。

下午到由布院。那裏有個金鱗湖,水的波浪看起來像魚鱗。由布院走道有很多特產和小吃。有一間超市,裡面有很多生魚片便當。買了一盒甜蝦刺生,很好吃。也買了燒酒,因為導遊說燒酒在九州比較出名。看到一些豆豆龍主題的佈置,大家搶拍照。

往阿蘇溫泉飯店的路上經過美麗的雪景。吃完晚餐就泡泡溫泉。這個行程只有這一晚住溫泉旅館,得好好泡一泡。

2月12日

一早起來到大觀峰看美景。從內牧溫泉東北方的北外環山的最高峰往下一看,就好像老鷹的視野!

搭乘漂亮的萌熊Kumamon電鐵,車上有很多可愛的熊熊圖片(由於行程因為我媽媽在大觀峰迷路和一位老先生座車半途中要下來小便而拖延,我們反而搭上比較漂亮的車)。導遊說,有些人叫Kumamon熊本熊,但是日本人說不能這樣叫,因為熊本沒有熊。熊本這個地區之所以會叫熊本是因為本來這裡叫「畏本」,聽起來太弱了,所以被改成熊本,因為比較兇,能反應武士精神。

在熊本市區看Kumamon辦公室。有些人覺得Kumamon很可愛,但也有一些人覺得他很噁心,因為看起來要笑不笑的,好像不懷好意的。

導遊說「熊本」應該叫做「馬本」。本來熊本是主要產馬地。但是現在北海道變成主要的產馬地,因為現在日本大部分的馬是養來賽馬,然後他們發現北海道養的馬跑比較快。熊本馬大部分都是養來吃的,日本觀光局大力推廣旅客在熊本吃馬肉! 所以,接下來在上通下通商店街自由活動時間,我就試著找馬肉。結果,大部分的馬肉料理都是晚上才開,吃不到,反而找到一間空蕩蕩的一蘭拉麵,就嘗嘗看。之前有聽說一蘭拉麵很好吃,所以在台北想吃吃看,結果被店員告知要排隊三個小時才吃的到,就不吃了。在這裡根本就完全不用等!

接下來到了櫻之馬場城彩苑和熊本城外圍。2016年的熊本地震使得熊本城嚴重倒塌,所以我們進不了城。在天守(城最高的塔)拍了幾張照就發現阿嬤不見了。我媽叫我去找,我到更靠近城的操場也找不到。結果是阿嬤已經先上遊覽車了! 終於在櫻之小路買到馬肉刺生,吃到馬肉了。

2月13日

第一個行程是柳川人力遊船。船上有暖桌棉被。船夫一邊唱歌一邊划船,過低橋時還會靈巧的從船跳到橋上,然後從橋上跳回船上。

接下來到太宰府天滿宮。這是一間供奉日本「學問之神」菅原道真的神社。菅原道真很愛梅,園中遍植梅樹,梅餅、梅茶等更是當地名產。我們在天滿宮前的街道上買明太子吃,還看到一間由知名建築師隈研吾設計、造型獨特的星巴克。

晚上到了博多。博多出名的三道菜包括拉麵、牛扎鍋(motsunabe)和清湯雞肉火鍋(mizutaki)。這三道菜都大約只有100年的歷史,因為1850年以前,日本鎖國。日本拉麵的發源地是橫濱,起初只是像華人的陽春雞麵。後來把雞骨湯改成豬骨湯,因為豬骨比較便宜。麵逐漸地從又粗又軟變成又細又Q。剛開始是清湯,但是有人不小心以大火煮出混濁的湯,效果不錯,所以就演變成今天的樣子。不過從日本人的角度,拉麵仍舊是中國菜。剛開始博多拉麵是給魚夫吃的。博多拉麵的麵條在湯裡爛得快,所以傳統上是給100g 麵球,要更多就在加。博多拉麵的湯很油,有些人喝了會拉肚子。

在博多運河城吃了牛扎鍋,看水舞秀,就去飯店。飯店就在博多車站旁邊。


2月14日

一般人生日可能會去做一些很開心的事。我這次生日第一次在日本自由行。之前來日本都是全程跟旅行團的,這次訂的九州團,第四天是自由行,而且旅館就在博多車站旁邊,於是我就自己買JR票搭上海鷗快車去長崎行軍禱告 (日幣6180來回)! 在長崎買了一日遊店車票(日幣500)。第一站到長崎原爆資料館,可能有一些人覺得我瘋了,好好的一個生日,為什麼來一個會讓人痛哭流涕的地方。世界上也就只有兩個地方被原子彈炸過,所以我覺得來到這個地方,有很多可以學習的,而且我也不太可能以後專程為了來長崎而再搭另一趟飛機來九州了。歷史上,這個港口是基督教最先進入日本的地區(這些歷史是我在這趟旅程才知道的,之前不知道)。
https://www.cna.com.tw/news/acul/201806300165.aspx
接下來逛到和平公園。
浦上天主堂在1925年是亞洲最大的天主教堂,不過被原子彈炸毀了,反而比較遠的大浦天主堂則沒有被炸掉。
搭車到大浦天主堂的途中需要在新地中國街轉車,所以就下來看看中華街和出島(荷蘭商館跡)。
到大浦天主堂站,下車走錯方向,繞了一大圈,看到一些洋房和一間孔廟,最後才到達大浦天主堂和哥拉巴園。不過時間太晚了,沒買門票進去。
再搭車到眼鏡橋,看到長得很像眼鏡的橋。在到市民會館前搭車長崎站。
發現長崎站旁有一個26聖人殉教地,1597年殉教的。
最後又搭了海鷗快車回博多。

11Feb

This was my fourth visit to Japan. I had been there too many times and had trouble coming up with a new region to go to, so I decided to go to the Kyushu region this time. The tour guide we got was great: he’s very knowledgeable, very logically minded, speaks in a very direct fashion, and doesn't spent lots of time promoting souvenirs.

My stomach was exploding! Woke 3am to get to airport had a simple breakfast, ate two lunches on the plane coz grandma couldn't eat her own, had a third lunch in Japan which was DIY ramen, then buffet dinner in the hotel. So the amount was equivalent to at least 6 meals, because the ramen was refillable, and buffet dinner got great things like sashimi and wagyu, so I feel bad if didn't get value for the money.

At noon, I saw a super cute little monkey performing in the shopping centre.

In the afternoon, we went to Yufuin. We looked at Lake Kinrinko (golden fish scale lake), and saw that the waves of water look like fish scales. On the village streets, there are many snacks and souvenirs. There is a supermarket with lots of sashimi boxes. I bought a box of sweet shrimps and it was delicious. I also bought shochu, because the tour guide said that shochu is famous in Kyushu. In the village there are many Totoro themed decorations, and people were lining up to take photos.

It was snowing beautifully on the way to the Aso Villa Park Hotel. After dinner, we soaked in the hot spring. This was the only night where we got access to the hot spring, so I felt I had to make the most out of it.

Monkey show Kyushu
https://youtu.be/iL9AB2VLnOo
Fish-scale like Lake Kinrinko
https://youtu.be/dgsqaCRpAfo

12Feb

Got up early in the morning to go to Mt Daikanbo. Looking down from the highest peak of the Aso mountain chain, I felt like I had an “eagle’s eye view” of the beautiful scenery.

Had a ride on a beautiful Kumamon train (Kumamon is the popular black bear mascot of the Kumamoto Prefecture). There are many cute pictures of the bear on the train. The tour guide said that some people translated the Kumamon as “Kumamoto Bear” in Chinese, but the Japanese opposed this translation because there are no bears in Kumamoto. This region was called Kumamoto (kuma means bear) simply because they wanted to have a fiercer sounding name corresponding to the spirit of the samurai, and the original name of this region sounded too weak.

Next, we went to Kumamon’s office in downtown Kumamoto. Some people think that Kumamon is very cute, but other think that he is disgusting, because it is hard to tell whether he’s smiling or not from the way his mouth opens up, so some people think he is probably up to no good.

The tour guide thinks "Kumamoto" should be called "Umamoto" (uma means horse). Originally, Kumamoto was the main producer of horses. However, Hokkaido is now the main place of production, because most of the horses in Japan are now bred as race horses, and they find that horses bred in Hokkaido run faster. Most of Kumamoto's horses are bred to be eaten. The Japan Tourism Bureau heavily promotes horse sashimi in Kumamoto, so I tried to find horse meat during my free time in downtown Kumamoto. However, most of the horse sashimi restaurants open at night, so I did not get to eat it. Instead, I found an empty one Ichiran ramen shop and tasted it for the first time. In Taipei, people have to line up for three hours to eat Ichiran ramen, so I did not bother to try it in Taipei. There was no wait here because the shop was empty!

Next, we went to the Sakuranobaba Johsaien and Kumamoto Castle. The Kumamoto earthquake in 2016 caused the Kumamoto Castle to collapse, so we could not enter it. After taking a few photos of the Tenshu (the highest tower in the city), we realised grandma disappeared. My mom told me to go and find her, but I couldn't find her. Later we found out that my grandma had already boarded the tour bus without letting anyone know! The Sakuranobaba Johsaien sells horse sashimi so I got to eat it in the end.

Kumamon micks people talking:
https://youtu.be/-Wj0sbohG-I

13Feb

The first thing in the itinerary was the Yanagawa manpower cruise. There was a warm table on the boat. The boatman sings and rows, and when he crosses the low bridge, he jumps from the boat to the bridge and then from the bridge back to the boat.

Next, we went to the Dazaifu Temmangu. This is a shrine dedicated to Michizane, the "god of learning", in Japan. Michizane really loved plums, so plum trees, plum cakes, and plum tea are all local famous produces. We bought mentaiko (marinated pollock roe) on the street in front of the Dazaifu Temmangu, and also saw a Starbucks designed by the famous architect Kengo Kuma.

We arrived in Hakata in the evening. Three of Hakata’s most famous dishes are: ramen noodles, motsunabe and chicken hot pot (mizutaki). These three dishes are only about 100 years old, because Japan was a closed nation before 1850. The birthplace of Japanese ramen is Yokohama. The ramen was originally just a Chinese chicken noodle soup. Later, the chicken bone soup was changed to pork bone soup because the pig bones were cheaper. The noodle went from thick and soft to narrow and chewy. It was a clear soup at first, but someone accidentally cooked a turbid soup on big fire, and the effect was good, so it evolved into what it is today. However, from the perspective of the Japanese, ramen is still Chinese food. In the beginning, Hakata ramen was eaten by the fisherman. The noodles of Hakata ramen swells up rapidly in the soup, so the tradition is to give 100g noodles and add in refills later. The soup of Hakata Ramen is very oily, and some people get diarrhea from it.

In the Canal City Hakata, we ate motsunabe, watched a water show, and went to the hotel. The hotel is conveniently located right next to the Hakata station.

Agile boatman of Yanagawa:
https://youtu.be/T7du34GosvM
https://youtu.be/4cDnwAgZ_p0
Water show at Canal City Hakata:
https://youtu.be/Mjjcx81WkU8

14Feb

Most people tend to do something happy on their birthdays. I embarked on a self-tour in Japan for the first time. All my previous trips to Japan were 100% tour guided group tours. This time, day four of this Kyushu tour is a “free day,” and the hotel is located next to the Hakata station. So I bought my own JR ticket and took the Kamome (express) train to Nagasaki (6180 yen return)! Then I bought the one day Tram pass in Nagasaki (500 yen). The first place I went to was the Nagasaki Bomb Museum. People may think I am nuts, in choosing to go to a place which makes people cry, for my birthday. Well, there are only two places in the world that had been bombed by the atomic bomb, so I believe that a lot can be learnt from visiting this place. Furthermore, I am not exactly going to make another plane trip to Japan especially to visit Nagasaki, so might as well visit it today. This harbour was the site where Christianity first entered into Japan (I only discovered the rich Christianity history of this region during this trip and didn’t know anything before).
https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2016/01/20/business/discovering-nagasakis-secret-christian-past

Then, I visited the Peace Park.

The Urakami Cathedral was the biggest cathedral in Asia in 1925, but it was destroyed by the atomic bomb. The Ora Cathedral was not destroyed by the bomb because it was further away from the hypocentre.

On my way to the Ora Cathedral, I had to change tram at China Town, so I visited this place. I also visited the Dejima, which was a Dutch settlement.

I walked in the wrong direction at the Ora Cathedral station and walked all the way to some Western houses and a Confuses temple before finally arriving at the Oral Cathedral and the Glover Garden. However, it was quite late by then so I didn’t by the entrance tickets to either of these sites.

Then I took the tram to the Spectacles Bridge, which really looked like spectacles!

Then I took the tram at the Civic Hall back to the Nagasaki station to visit the site of the Martyrdom of the 26 Saints (martyred 1597) before heading off on the Kamome train back to Hakata.

More photos from the trip, please see:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZQ1FF5SeHzZWXnjz9
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